Music Of The Night

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I’m severely handicapped when it comes to music. I was blessed with much love for it, but no skill in producing or playing any of it. I’m a liability on your team if music trivia is the category and my knowledge of songs, singers and bands borders on the edge of illiteracy.

I took piano lessons in my early twenties and still hear the desperate voice of my teacher urging me to play WITH the beat of the metronome. I think I must have been his most failed attempt in teaching someone to play even the most basic. I cannot sing, I hum poorly, don’t whistle and lack the ability to remember the name of an artist or song. Oh, but how I love listening to music! It inspires and transcends me to a place of complete happiness.

(Note to self: If stranded on an island, music must be included in the survival kit.)

There are many memories that I will hold close about the magic of Prague. However, if I was given only one word to describe its charm, it would be “music”. After all, it’s the city of Dvorak and Mozart. Music bursts from its seams and wraps you tenderly in the magic notes of the great masters. It flows, like the Vlatava river, from the buildings, the street performers, and the many people on the move, with a violin or cello case strapped to their backs. Multiple concerts nightly of the ballet, the opera, quartets, sopranos, and more are performed all over the city. And that is before you include all the great Jazz acts calling out for your attention.

Along my favorite walks in the old city, I also found my favorite street performers. They all had their specific spots and I made sure I strolled by daily. There was the blind soprano at the end of the Charles Bridge whose voice caused me to just close my eyes and be transported to another place.

50 yards down from her on the Bridge was the violin player. If I could play any instrument, I would wish it to be the violin. There is such purity in its sound and such beauty in the vibrato. In the premier spot on the bridge was a small orchestra. They covered a trumpet, violin, flute, oboe and cello. Their spectators were always large and I felt that they didn’t need my applause as much. My other violin friend played along the cobblestone road to the Castle, which was a smart move, as he had little competition. He lacked the drama and artistry of my violin friend on the Bridge, but his grey hair, bowed shoulders and the many decades etched on his face, made him a favorite study thru my camera lens.

And then there was Alex … always on the Charles Bridge. He was my favorite. During the day he was the quirky guy, the one man band, with the strange contraption and yellow umbrella strapped to his head that made the tourist stop to take his picture, laugh at his antics and applaud at his originality. But at night, when I visited the most, he was the one that played the Bohemian crystal water glasses. It was the most beautiful, haunting sound and it touched my heart on so many levels. My kids would have teased me once more how easily I can cry, and Alex certainly mastered the art to make my tears flow freely, every night, while listening to his water melodies in the below freezing night air.

He set the stage to my Prague ritual as it unfolded nightly after dinner. I would walk back over the Bridge and linger along the way at my favorite statues. The streets were deserted at this hour and I felt that I owned my private sliver of Prague, away from the indifferent tourists, and absent from the haste of the locals hurrying off to somewhere. I had plenty time and no agenda. I had the luxury to remain and listen to the voices and the music from this ancient city.

I would make my way up Narudova Street, past my hotel, to the Castle and Cathedral, which was also one of the highest points in the City. And I would sit quietly, just contemplating the world in front of me, with just the moon, stars and streetlights as companions, and I would listen to myself. Maybe I can meditate after all.

Charmed

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Solo dining in a restaurant is always more effective when you have something to do. It makes the staff less uncomfortable and gives you permission to stay longer. Writing on my computer or reading a book is also my signal to others that I’m really comfortable with my own company and I don’t need their compassion in lacking a dinner companion. But in my total haste to pack for this trip (see previous blog entry), I failed to pack any books. The bookstore at the train station in Germany offered a limited selection of English reading but I did leave with “The Happiness Project” and “Who Am I”. The titles and summary seemed as if they would align with my desire to clean out and rearrange the closets in my head.

(Note to self: Start paying attention to the font size of a book, as reading in low light in a restaurant after you turn 40-something can really cause eye strain. Maybe it’s time to stop being in denial and get some “readers”!)

Armed with my trusted and worn Nike backpack, I set out with my little map, “The Happiness Project”, the quest on “Who Am I?”, gloves and a beanie. Included was my camera and 300m zoom lens, a bottle of water, my money bag and a bunch of nick-knacks that continued to illustrate my inability to even pack for a stroll without being overburdened.

The frigid air caused me brief concerns that my furry jacket may be warm against Dallas standards but that “furry”, in winter, in Prague, may need much more “fur” to stay warm. I walked south towards the Vlatava river and the Charles Bridge, not sure exactly what the evening would deliver. Plenty little cafés lined the sidewalk advertising their Czech specialties. Goulash and dumplings, duck, rabbit, and hot wine were all part of the special menus of the day.

Night was in full swing when I turned the corner and feasted my hungry eyes on the Charles Bridge. At this time I would like to take the opportunity to send a special note to the city of Prague staffer in charge of spot lighting buildings and statues:

Dear Sir/Madam, thank you for a job well done. You certainly stopped me in my furry tracks, left me speechless and also briefly gasping for air. I sincerely appreciate the beauty that you were able to present to a solo tracker searching for happiness and who she is. Much regards, Henda.

Oh, what a bridge! We fell in love upon first sight. Well, I did the falling as the bridge just silently witnessed my complete surrender to the spell it cast upon me. Fog was swirling on the water, and neither the moon nor any stars were out to detract from the pleasure of my view. Never before had I crossed a bridge over a river with such anticipation and delight. Few people were out strolling at this hour as it was midweek and really cold. Sans a guidebook, I still did not know much about the thirty statues lining the bridge. But tonight I just wanted to acquaint myself. I had all week to learn their identity and what brought them to be the sentinels on this bridge, watching us cross for seven hundred years.

Halfway across I saw a small restaurant situated right on the river, at the foot of the bridge and knew that I wanted to enjoy my dinner tonight within sight of my new stone friends. It was a little tricky to find the entrance and only later did I learn that KampaPark is one of the top restaurants in Prague. My table for one gave me a front row view of the Bridge and as it was still early for Prague dining hours, there were few patrons around.

Much to my surprise, the Czech Sauvignon Blanc was very pleasant. I love to drink the local wines and have discovered many delights in India and Peru, with a clear exception of the Zimbabwe red wine I tried at Mama Africa in Victoria Falls. That, my dear friends, will make hair grow on your teeth.

But back to dinner: I started with a wonderful eggplant terrine and ricotta cheese, on a bed of mesclun and a drizzle of caramel walnuts. Not exactly the hardy Czech specialties I saw advertised earlier, but certainly refined and delicious. My entrée was a saddle of reindeer with juniper marmalade and a cardamom sauce, accompanied by a pumpkin soufflé baked with a parmesan crust. Ok, so I’m a foodie and have deep inner longings to be a chef. Trust me when I tell you that each bite was as sublime as the view my eyes were feasting on.

My book was forgotten next to my plate as I relished in the combination of tastes that my mouth was savoring. To be quite honest, I had trouble reading by candlelight and using a flashlight App on my iPhone was really un-cool giving the setting. I was deconstructing each part of the meal so I could attempt its reconstructing from memory back in Dallas. I just kept wondering where could I find saddle of reindeer and concluded that maybe my neighbor, a hunter, can give me a loin of a Texas white tailed deer.

By now the restaurant was full and I could isolate the conversations at the tables surrounding me. I was amazed how much I could learn about my fellow diners by just listening. Next to me was a German group. I delighted in being able to follow pieces of their conversation and was amazed how much the ebb and flow was so similar to my own mother tongue, Afrikaans. It has been 25 years since I last spoke German and I had forgotten about my own fluency. It was a pleasure to know it was safely tucked away in one of the drawers in my head, ready for me to enjoy.

(Side note: In my new found commitment to resurrect my forgotten French and German; I bought in Frankfurt en route back to Dallas, a few German tabloid magazines and a romance novel in the vein of Harlequin with a “Fabio” cover. If I just spend 30 minutes a day reading out loud in both French and German, I know I can get my confidence back to converse.)

The oriental couple behind me complained in English to the waitress about the difficulty in finding the restaurant and that the owners really need to do a better job with signage. She also wanted a lot more ginger with her hot water. Sigh. I bet you they were booked on those excursions to see Prague in a day.

The nice American family adjacent brought their teenage daughters for the first time. They were debating between a French or Italian white and I wanted to suggest the Czech. They had been to Prague before and were sharing their excitement about the city with their daughters.

Afterwards, I walked back across the bridge to my little hotel in the shadow of the Cathedral. The Cathedral is another marvelous light display against the dark sky. My first night in Prague was time well spent and I looked forward to what I may stumble upon the next day.

Sounds of Silence

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The thought of a little mano-a-mano time with myself seemed like a great idea and where better than Prague, The Golden City, Paris of the East? The city became the place to rid my head space of clutter accumulated over time, and I arrived with the desire to realize a tidier self. I travel often but it had been 22 years since I last found myself on an island by myself, or more accurately, it was 1989, when I backpacked solo thru the Middle East during winter and Ramadan.

I spent most of that time in Turkey. I traversed the country on buses: from Istanbul to Ankara, Cappadocia to the Black Sea, south to the coast and the old city of Ephesus, and mostly off the beaten path. Though not Muslim, I followed the custom to eat before sunrise or after sunset, out of necessity, as few eateries were open during the day. I seldom ran into people who could speak English and to the locals then, a western woman by herself, in jeans, were peculiar and to be avoided.

(Side note: I remember taking the Arab bus to Jericho and mistaken for an American; two girls, my age, invited me back to their house in old Jerusalem. It sounded like a good idea as I was lonely for company. I ended up in the Arab quarter, sitting cross-legged on the dirt floor with their whole family, sipping tea and doing a lot of smiling. When the minarets sounded nearby to indicate the end of the day; we dined on fatty boiled lamb and bread. To this day I still shudder a little at the taste and texture of boiled fat. Only later did I understand that the purpose of the invitation was to meet their brother. He was fluent in English and his hatred for Israel was tangible. After hours of his tirade, I found my way back to the bus stop where we started. Grateful for my safe escape, I made a silent promise that ideology would never consume or cloud my judgment.)

As a mature 23-year-old back in 1989, my life was much less complicated, and my mind much less burdened with the art of living a life lived well. Spending time with me was far less complicated. On my countless other trips, I was seldom really alone for long periods.  In Africa I have friends, on dive trips there are other divers present, in India I had a driver, fellow endurance racers and more friends to share the experience with. Mostly on other travels I had enjoyed the presence of my family to share the discovery of new places. Even during my days climbing El Misti volcano in Peru, I was in the company of a well-meaning guide who looked after me.

The bus arrived from Germany in Prague as the early dark of winter was settling over the city. I caught glimpses from the bus window of the splendid buildings lining the river whose name was yet unknown. My hotel, The Golden Wheel, was in the old city, 500m from the Castle and the Charles Bridge on Narudova Street per their website. Now, I’m certainly no expert in distance marking, but having been a 400m sprinter back in the day, I would say that it was unquestionably the furthest 500m from two points I ever imagined. Adding a steep climb to part of the way, and my legs were mistaking the trip as another one of my crazy endurance races.

The hotel was located in a building dating back to the 15th century and my room was charming and cozy with all the luxury I would expect from a 4 star hotel in Europe. Only later would I come to understand what a special location Nerudova Street was and that I would end up spending much time at the buildings and Cathedral I could see from my two small windows in the ceiling.

One of the unintended consequences of a solo journey is a vow of silence. Inadvertently, your conversations are limited to the brief interaction with waiters, street vendors and hotel staff. When you choose not to participate in the “tourist attraction” offerings, you also isolate yourself from just about all the tourists signing up for the quick excursions around the city. Now add to this quiet cocktail a country whose language is completely foreign; trust me that you not only hear the voices in your own head, but you actually start to converse with them.

Resisting a guidebook as I wanted to discover Prague without any preconceived suggestions and interpretations; I was armed with only the small map that the hotel receptionist handed me. I decided that Prague and I will acquaint ourselves through the art of walking. Although I packed five pairs of shoes, in the end I only wore my North Face après-ski boots. Fur lined and with sturdy soles, they carried me across the ancient cobble stones of the old city.

For many hours each day and over many miles, I walked. And I watched, saw, listened and heard the narrative that this gorgeous city wanted to share with me. When you remove the distraction of conversation and are willing to just wander without a guide and when you surrender to the sound of silence and quiet the voices in your head, you can write a book “Stumbled Upon in Prague”. To be continued . . .

My Unbearable Lightness of Being

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Packing in less than 15mins for an overseas trip? Yup, that’s me. Although “packing” implies order and organized, whereas my style is more to cram, stuff and fill my suitcase with things I know I won’t need but that I don’t have time to sort through. The size of my suitcase typically dictates the level of unnecessary belongings I drag with me.

Why do I leave the crucial act of packing to the last-minute you may wonder? Almost always late, the race to catch a plane constantly overshadows my ability to pack efficiently. Or maybe more accurately, each time I severely underestimate the time needed to do packing justice. Squeezing a million things into the hours before a departure undermines both my desire not to rush and to have a well packed suitcase. Sigh.

This trip was particularly more last-minute as I was buying the suitcase 30mins before I had to leave for the airport. Even my 10-year-old daughter called to ask me when I will be home to pack! Between 7 pairs of pants and jeans, a furry jacket, a down jacket and my ski jacket, short and long-sleeved T-shirts, sweaters, 2 little dresses, tracksuits, leggings, 5 pairs of shoes, shirts and enough socks and underwear for about 10 days, I will be dragging a heavy suitcase around for a week. But its winter and you just never know what you will need. Sigh.

(Side note: I do a little better when I have to pack the whole family up for a trip. Although, I still see the complete horror in my assistant, Kay’s eyes, when I confessed that I have packed for my kids’ two week summer camp from the back of the car, while driving them to summer camp. Hey, that took special skills: name-marking, sorting and packing clothes, towels, toiletries, and linens for two kids, with their trunks, for two weeks, from the back of a Suburban.)

When I then confess that I only decided on this latest trip last-minute, still lack complete hotel reservations as I’m boarding my Dallas to Frankfurt flight, without any agenda, and with only a train ticket to Prague from Frankfurt; you can see that packing a well thought out suitcase is the last of my worries.

Prague? Why Prague? Really? In the winter? Yeah, I know . . . They don’t eat turkey over Thanksgiving. But it was time for me to step away and spend time with myself. It was time to give myself the space where I could hear my thoughts. And there was another side to my desire to step off the Dallas grid.

(Side note: I’m very afraid of heights in man-made structure . . . high buildings, elevators running on the outside of buildings  . . . and often I put myself in a position to experience that level of fear and to see if I can overcome and control it. I recently went up the elevator at Reunion Tower in Dallas as well as the Top of the Rock in NYC. And each time, I learned again that I was afraid. But I tried anyway.)

My love to travel to remote and off the beaten paths took a beating after my semi heart attack while in Peru in 2009, 30 days after my breast cancer diagnosis. Not only was it extraordinarily scary but it also attached a very high level of fear to the exact thing that I loved to do: to travel far away from the comfort, security and support I enjoy in Dallas.

I recently heard a presentation about how a life threatening medical condition removes our sense of safety about the world and how we fit into it. I certainly understand that and agree 100%. So coming to Prague also meant me testing myself to see where my fear meter was about having something happen to me while far away and by myself. I know . . . very weird . . . But it is an interesting experiment as we cannot simulate the same emotions of anxiety and insecurity when we are in a familiar place surrounded by people and places we know. So my week in Prague alone will continue to unfold on my journey of self-discovery.

It got off to a very rocky start as the 9 hour plane ride certainly terrified me and I was convinced that I would not make it – well, to my defense – it was an extremely bumpy flight. By experiencing the very feelings which I fear most, I am more able to accept, process and manage it. It reminds me of my own vulnerability and brings a self-awareness to my life and its limitations that is a fresh reminder for me to keep my focus on what matters. It also helps me to understand other people’s challenges and struggles. And above all, it allows me to use my own logic to overcome the demons still hiding in my head.

As it turns out, the second half of the journey to Prague is on a luxury Eurobus and not the train. I’m sipping sparkling water as the Eastern European country side unfolds past me through thick layers of fog. I will allow Prague and the journey to reveal itself.  I’m following the advice of a friend to keep things simple and allow the adventure to determine the plan, to forgo expectations which can be false, misleading or disappointing. Without a guidebook, I plan to discover the City of Spires, layer by layer.

I do travel light even if my luggage is bulky and disorganized.

Breathing Thin Air

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Just Quit! You made it far enough!” the voices in my head urged. “Henda, la cima es muy cerca, seulemente 60 minutes mas!” the encouraging voice of my Peruvian mountain guide pressing me to continue. Success can be so close, yet so far away . . . Climbing El Misti volcano to its peak at 19,100 feet was so much harder than I ever thought.   

The last 60 minutes before I reached the summit were excruciatingly difficult. I could see the top just above, but instead of a straight vertical ascend; we had to crisscross the steep mountain face in an endless array of switchbacks.  The Himalayan 100 race taught me how much I hated switch backs and El Misti volcano confirmed that they can bring me to my knees every time. Exhausted, the ice-cold wind gnawing at me, and with 73% oxygen saturation; my lungs were starved for air.  

Inching forward and upward, counting 30 steps at a time, then allowing myself 30 breaths of rest, hunched over my Leki sticks; so grateful for their support. Tunnel vision was all I could pull out of my reserves – just focus on the next 30 steps and nothing else. 30 steps forward, 30 breaths of rest  . . .  

Remind me, why did I need to reach this summit? My reasons all became so unimportant and in those last minutes it was just vital not to quit. Finish the task, one step at a time. Suddenly the emergency room in Arequipa and the fear of dying back in 2009 became small dots on the arid landscape of endless rocks and volcanic sand that surrounded me.

The trek to base camp the day before was just a preface for what was awaiting. I was amazed at the speed that our Sherpa could maintain with his backpack and mine, stringed on top. His agility and strength were astounding and I was embarrassed that my 10 pound daypack was straining me. The bottom part of the mountain was an ocean of black sand dunes. With each step my shoes sunk deep into the soft sand. Fine, like fresh powder, it stuck to my skin like shimmering black dust.

Base camp was at 13,500 feet and marked by a collection of rocks to shield us from the wind. Between the guide and Sherpa, our tents went up quickly. With limited camping experience, I was grateful that others were in charge of my well-being. Dusk was upon us when I joined the boys in the “dinner” tent to test the strength of my Spanish. By now I was wearing two pairs of thermal underwear, ski pants, a thermal top, fleece, and a thick down jacket, hat and gloves. Dinner consisted of bread, spaghetti and a packet of chicken soup. I have always followed the mantra “when in Rome” and very soon I was discussing the upcoming Peruvian elections with my two dinner companions – in Spanish! I’m not sure who was more amazed! It was a little like playing Charades where I used my limited vocabulary to describe what I wanted to say and then either the guide, Jose, or David, the Sherpa, would chime in with the missing words. But 2 hours later we were visiting like old friends over cups of steaming hot chocolate and tea.         

The splendor of the night sky away from city lights has always left me in awe and that night God treated me to a special show. It was silent and crystal clear, and the stars were glittering diamonds on black velvet. Above me the Southern Cross shined like a vivid beacon, surrounded by the Milky Way, always reminding me that I can find my way home. And later, securely tucked into the warmth of my wasabi and grey down sleeping bag, my gratitude was overflowing.     

2am arrived far too soon. The long journey to the top had begun. After hot tea and bread, we started out in single file, our headlamps lighting the way. Soon my fingers were frozen – why did I bring my running gloves instead of my ski gloves? Hours later, I was still fixated on my freezing cold hands. My guide, Jose, must have sensed my misery and graciously offered his. But knowing that mine would never fit him, I reluctantly declined. Live and learn, sucker, next time I will have the right ones!

Dawn broke and I could finally grasp the expanse of the surreal moon landscape that surrounded us. As well as the tremendous slope we were up against. Ribbons of orange were bursting across the horizon and soon the sun arrived in a fiery fireball, streaking its rays across the mountains. Well educated in the art of Sci-Fi flicks, I felt transported to an alien world. There was something so beautiful in the barren and desolate isolation that surrounded us.              

Hour after hour I also watched my oxygen saturation plummeted on my oximeter. Having followed the advice of my doctor friends, I had been taking Diamox for six days and was grateful for any additional O2 floating in my blood. With labored breathing and tired legs, each step was becoming harder. The mountain was slowly pulling ahead as the favorite to win the day. But my heart rate was stable in the 90s, and my faith in its continued long-term operation was growing.    

(Side Note: To reduce altitude sickness, Diomox is recommended for those ascending from sea level to 3000 meters (9800 feet) in one day, or for those ascending more than 600 meters (2000 feet) per day once above an altitude of 2500 meters (8200 feet). It forces the kidneys to excrete bicarbonate, the conjugate base of carbonic acid. By increasing the amount of bicarbonate excreted in the urine, the blood becomes more acidic. Acidifying the blood stimulates ventilation, which increases the amount of oxygen in the blood.What exactly did we do before Wikipedia?)

The boys paced with me and as we climbed higher and higher, our stops became more frequent. Jose kept us moving along and by now I was grateful for his wise and steady guidance. His heart rate never exceeded 67 and his O2 never dropped below 80, but I wondered how well he would do running 12 miles in 104 degrees in Dallas! The landscape had become more hostile and our unstable path, a mixture of gravel, rocks and sand. Armed with just water, we left our packs under a rock for the home stretch.

Sixty minutes later I stood at the top, well, actually, sobbing on my knees is more accurate . . . but as my tears dripped into the volcanic sand and seeing Arequipa at my feet very far below . . .  when I raised my sticks in victory, I finally felt the shadows around my heart scatter. Liberated from the fear I carried for so long, I could enjoy the spectacular views and file the experience away under “special” amongst my memories. Next time I find myself in Arequipa, I will climb Chachani, the adjacent volcano at 20,000 feet. I would just need an ice axe and crampons . . . and far better gloves!

Getting Even

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For the last 2 years I have used pure logic and the best medical expertise available to be convinced that my heart is just fine. Test after test, race after race . . . we can all say with strong conviction that my heart seems to be working well. So why do I still feel as if Houdini has personally tied me up with the most complicated knots? Why do I continue to listen to the voice in my head spreading doubt and fear? What would it take for me to kick this tiny, useless butt off my shoulder and free myself from this game of endless second guessing?

I’m an Annie Lennox fan and the lyrics of her song “Ghosts in my Machine” ring true as I have tried to befriend and eradicate my own. I finally understand that to free myself from this shadow that lingers, I need to go back to the beginning. To Arequipa, Peru.

(Side Note: In the summer of 2009, a week after my second breast cancer surgery, I was in Peru with my family. From Lima to the Rainforest, Machu Picchu to Cusco to Lake Titikaka at 15,000 feet; I dragged bags and kids along, while still in plenty of post surgery pain. Not smart. Arequipa, The White City, was our last stop. Literally; as I spent the next 3.5 days in an intensive care unit while being told that I had a heart attack and that half of my heart is dead. Here is the link to the gory details and the birth of the anxiety inside me.) 

An unexpected opportunity presented itself to me this month to accompany my father-in-law on a visit to the land of his birth and my phantom city, Arequipa, Peru. By returning to a place that held no good memories, I can re-create new ones and maybe finally let go of the fear about my heart.

I also knew that getting even was not enough. It was a matter, for once and for, to beat the bejeevies out of my white, ghostly friend. The days in 2009 that I spent in the hospital bed, fearing that very breath I took could be my last, had a single view from the window: El Misti Volcano, Arequipa’s signature mountain and active volcano. The one that is as high as Mount Kilimanjaro at 19,100 feet. The one where I want to write my name on the summit. The one I will climb this weekend.

We arrived in Arequipa today and as I stepped from the plane, El Misti was right there to make the introductions. I wanted to shout that the gloves were off, but instead I decided to play nice and took some photos instead. My father-in-law was met by many friends and with a large local fan base and language on my side, I am giving round 1 to me. We arrived at our hotel and, what to do you know? It is across from Clinica Arequipa where I spent those days back then . . . I’m taking round 2 as well.

(Side Note: I met with my guide, Jose, and between his English and my Spanish we will be a good team. He warned me that with the wind, it will be very cold. We will climb to base camp Saturday and then get up at 2am Sunday morning to trek to the summit. The descent will be quick and I should be back in Arequipa at the end of the day Sunday. It will just be Jose, the Sherpa, El Misti and me!)  

I know El Misti will reign during the night as the temperatures will drop to minus something really cold. I have come armed with my fleece, jackets, rain gear, gloves, hat, under armour, Leki poles and local guides. El Misti will test me with the loose sand the last 7 hours to the top. But it is time to settle this score.  It is time to stand at the top and see the world for what it is. In our hands and exactly what we choose to make of it. I’m ready to untie these knots one at a time and leave my ghost alone on an active volcano on another continent. I’m ready to free myself. And  I’m hoping to call El Misti “un amigo mio” soon!

Ritual and Custom

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What does one do when you are terribly homesick on a Sunday night? How about cooking for 5 hours? If nothing else, exhaustion sets in after about 3 hours and after 5 hours you are ready to blog about it with a glass of red wine and feet up! It started with Skype calls to my friends in South-Africa. How I miss them! How I wish I can be there more often!     

I needed to build a bridge tonight and more than any other blocks; food, flavors and spice can transport me from the here and now to a moment captured from the past. I needed to pour my heart out by re-creating the memories of past comforts and peace – a gift to myself to ease the ache of separation.

(Side Note: The difference between a gift and a present? A present is something that you want the recipient to have. But a gift is something that the recipient would want.)

Naturally, an over-achiever would not be happy with just one dish; instead I chose to make four complicated and involved, from scratch, ensembles that could have secured me a spot on the Food Network. The first was from home; a quintessential South-African dish that crosses racial and cultural boundaries, called “Bobotie”. Malayan in origin, it shares a similar flavor profile with Indian undertones. Over the years, I have added my own twists and turns to a version that reflects my style and taste. It is a wonderful marriage of spices, dried fruit, ground beef and custard – think shepherd’s pie meeting Quiche with curry and garam masala.

My next labor of love were samosas: delightful little triangle bites filled with all sorts, and in my case, curried lamb with peas. Not only is it a much-loved dish in South-Africa, but it was also one of my most favorite street foods in India. Making the filling, then form and hand stuff the triangles, were an intense exercise in patience and devotion. Oh, but how sweet they were!

But my masterpiece was a chicken tikka masala. It is satisfying to create the layers of flavor and the complexity of a sauce known by many, but all my own. Not much of a recipe follower, instead, I trusted my taste buds to balance toasted cumin seeds, coriander, paprika, curry, garam masala and so much more. Rounding out the group was another classic, lamb biryani, which will always transport me back to Delhi, to my first supper after the Himalayan 100 mile endurance race.         

The stormy weather outside was a fitting backdrop to my head space as a great downpour reminded me of nature’s way to yield to heartbreaking sobs and a good cry. Never underestimate the healing powers of our tears, or the rain, as it cleanses and washes away much of our frustration and pain.  To ease my kids’ fears when they were little, I constantly told them that a rainstorm was God watering His garden and that all the flashes of lightning was God taking pictures of the beautiful flowers.

My internal struggle to balance the puzzle of my life is ongoing. My American polish shines bright over the strata of the underlying characteristics from my third world love affairs. I have lived the privileged life for so long that I wonder if I can traverse back along the path to a more rugged and uneven route.

My South-African roots run deep and it seems the older I get, just like an Alaskan salmon swimming back; the place of my birth is calling me home. I miss my people, my culture, and above all, the land, whose sunsets, smells and sounds bring pleasure to my soul. My African dream hopes to carry me home one day.     

India struck a profound chord that is hard to explain. Having travelled extensively across many continents, I have never felt so instantly connected to a time and place as I did in this very complex country of extreme contradiction. And maybe that is exactly what attracted me the most to India’s core, as I recognized the extremes that exist within me.

From the sheer wonder of the Taj Mahal, the intense poverty in Mumbai, to the greatness and splendor of the Himalayas, to Varanasi, one of the oldest living cities in the world; I was thrilled by a tapestry woven with threads that took my breath away.

Varanasi (Banares) was the city whose spirit still echoes loudly and whose memory I unwrap often to enjoy like a special treat. Situated on the banks of the Ganges, it is the sacred city to both the Buddhist and Hindu and the holiest of all pilgrimages. As I stood under the tree where Buddha gave his first sermon, my wish was that I could be touched by my own enlightenment. I longed for the same peace I felt from the orange clad monks I encountered at the monasteries I visited.   

Watching dawn break over the Ganges, Holy River for the Hindu, wrapped in my beautiful sari, when twilight painted the world in blue ambient light, just before the first rays of the sun washed the temples and shrines in a golden hue along the river; I watched as thousands of people bathed in the blessed waters. I wished I could shed my own robes and baggage that easily, and stepped into my own waters of reverence.  

Being cremated on the Ganges is the supreme wish of a Hindu and the cremation flames have burned for more than 5,000 years at two ghats on the river, without ever being put out, ever. As I watched their flames from the middle of the river, I thought of the rituals and traditions that define the cultures we belong to. And I understood how much I am a nomad, sharing in many: some borrowed, some inherited and some acquired along the way, not always sure where I belong.

My Indian feast included witnessing exquisite pieces of art dating back to 2,300 BC. One of my most  favorite was a two-inch incredibly beautiful crystal sculpture of a woman’s head. I had no idea that the art of crystal was that old! I can still see her flowing hair and defined eyelashes in a piece that would have made Picasso envious. And it made me happy to know that humans were capable of creating such beauty so long ago. Regardless of the cultures that we belong, or the rituals we embrace, in the end, it is our humanity that ties us together. And I can embrace all the threads that have been woven into my complex design. 

Gift and present, I’m taking some of my homemade samosas tomorrow to a South-African Indian friend that calls Dallas home – somehow it seems to be the fitting close to my effort to build a bridge between the worlds that collide in my heart.

Close Encounters

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Wild animals have always called my name and some of my most precious memories involved my close encounters with several in the wild. I was recently on a business trip in Grand Cayman, courtesy of the Ritz Carlton, as they were marketing their new Dragon Bay development to several real estate agents from Dallas. No trip to Cayman is complete without stopping in Stingray City to swim with the Stingrays and soon three large ones had me wrapped up in their wings! But for the sake of full disclosure: I had fresh squid in my hands that they wanted it bad enough to exchange some hugs and kisses!

One of the most exhilarating moments came about in a steel cage in the icy cold waters off Cape Town in South-Africa. Cage diving with the Great Ones had been on my bucket list for a long time and I finally had the chance in 2009 to come face-to-face with a great white shark. Which of us will ever forget Jaws? It was a seven man cage that was about 3 feet wide and suspended off the side of the boat as the great whites are surface feeders. I was the first to enter the cage and had the eerie feeling that I would be the animal in the cage!

The water gave me an instant brain freeze but the cold was soon forgotten as the first of about fourteen great white sharks were circling the boat. One, nearly ten feet long, came within inches of my face and looking into his steely eyes made me extremely grateful that I was behind bars.  The next diver rotation enjoyed a much closer run-in. I was leaning over the boat to get better pictures of the sharks when one of the large ones tried to attack the cage and got his bottom teeth stuck! With two massive slaps of his tail he broke free and the impact rocked the cage and boat dangerously from side to side. I almost lost my footing and nearly became lunch. Needless to say, shark diving for the day was cut short.

Last summer, we were in Zimbabwe and I finally checked another one off the bucket list – an elephant back safari. Although I have had many close encounters with elephants while on safari in South-Africa over the years, I had never touched an elephant or rode on one before. Majestic and large than life, as I wrapped my hands around his trunk, feeling his rough skin and looking into his soft brown eyes with the longest eye lashes, I felt like I was looking into pools of ancient wisdom. His name was Jake, and with my daughter and me on his back, he led the rest of the herd thru the African bush. It was a unique vantage point to experience the bush up high and from behind his big floppy ears, and to feel his tremendous power, as we were gently swaying from side to side. He effortlessly crushed the trees that were in his way as he happily grazed on branches. We were also able to get remarkable close to the other animals and I really felt like I was part of their world. Afterwards it was a total joy to toss treats into his mouth.

Scuba diving has brought me close to many underwater moments that took my breath away. During a night dive in the Bahamas several years ago a very large octopus wrapped itself around my arm. Their intelligence is legendary and they are masters at problem solving. As I was feeling his sucking cups took hold of my skin, I could only hope that he would recognize that I was not food.

One of the most incredible inter-actions I had was with a massive whale shark in Belize at 100 feet. Click here for the link to my blog post about the moment when I came face-to-face with the biggest fish in the ocean. It will always be one of my most amazing experiences, above or below the water!

I swam with dolphins in the Caribbean, have held lion cubs, felt a cheetah purr and been feet away from rhino, leopard and water buffalo in the wild. And I have a dream to one day personally meet the humpback whales. They occupy a very special spot in my heart. In 1996, as I scuba-dived the sheer outer wall of the Molokini crater in Maui, I heard their complex songs under water. I have never heard anything more beautiful and it was another dive where I wished I had a few spare tanks!

Remembering my wild friends always brings a smile to my face and fills my heart with gratitude that I had the chance to become better acquainted with them. They remind me how great and beautiful life is, and how much I love to live each day and how grateful I am for all the goodness that have come my way.

Street Food Musings

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Across the globe, street vendors entice us to sample their delightful bites. If we are willing to throw caution to the wind, we can savor these yummy morsels and solidify a lasting memory of the specific moment and place we devoured these potentially unsafe little thrill rides.

(Side note: After getting every immunization shot on the list for India, I was also armed with my local pharmacy and had enough diarrhea, stomach, dehydration, Z-Pack, Ciprofloxacin and other medication to supply a small village. I was very lucky never to get sick and came home with the whole shop intact and I wonder if there is a market on e-Bay for unused medicine?)  

My earliest introduction to the joy of a sidewalk mouthful goes back to the “boerewors” rolls in South-Africa that are sold on many street corners. “Boerewors”, or farm sausage, is made from beef and pork with ground, toasted coriander seeds as its leading spice. Topped with either ketchup or Mrs. Balls peach chutney, a “boerewors”-roll would be one of the many reason I could never become a vegetarian! Another favorite is “pannekoek”, crepes that are lightly dusted with cinnamon and sugar. Simple and unpretentious, it warms the heart and melts in your mouth. And like a much-loved blanket, both these wrap me in the precious memories from my childhood.

While backpacking thru the Middle East in 1989, I will always remember the Falafel pita pockets (deep-fried chickpea balls) from Old Jerusalem. I stayed in the old part of the city in a musty and very damp youth hostel, with small, rickety cots that were tightly lined up in neat rows. But its location was perfect and allowed me to wander through the labyrinthine paths and let myself get lost in history. I was in Jerusalem during Ramadan, absolutely dirt poor and unable to afford much beyond the cheap 2 Shekel falafel pitas that were sold everywhere.  I will never forget seeing my very first snow while standing in front of the Al-Aqsa Mosque, eating my pita pocket. My clothes were soaked and my feet were frozen, as I had no real winter clothes, however, I can close my eyes today and be transported back to that moment instantly. How crisp was the Falafel and how dazzling, to be dusted in white fluffy snowflakes!

Several years later I was in Granada, Spain, in the Medieval Moorish district of El Albayzin, famous for its narrow, winding streets. It was 2am, and after a long night of dinner, bars and Flamenco dancing, hunger called out to us to find something delicious. Sitting on the stone steps near the church of San Nicolas, we were munching on ”pulpo” (octopus) fries with the most spectacular view of the Alhambra at night. To this day, that was the most unforgettable fries of any kind that I have ever had! Many members of our Granada Salmeron family were with us and I will always hold the memory close, which represented a different time in my life, before kids, when 2am street snacks were the rule and not the exception.   

In Peru, during the summer of 2009, following my two breast cancer lumpectomies, I was introduced to a new kind of street food – “Emoliente”.  Vendors congregated in the streets at dawn and dusk with their rolling carts of unlabeled glass bottles, full of colorful magical ingredients. We were in the village of Urubamba, in the Sacred Valley near Machu Picchu, and our driver stopped to let us enjoy a glass. In Peru, “Emoliente” is the quintessential equivalent of chicken soup or a cup of hot English tea. People drink it to cure ailments of all kinds, and before or after going out on the town. But to me it held the potential of severe regret later that night. But hey, in for a penny, in for a pound! The secret of successfully enjoying any street food or drink, is not to ask yourself where, when and how often things have been thoroughly and safely cleaned. If you do, you will never allow yourself to leap into the turmoil of a potential stomach nightmare!

India delivered a new frontier in my street food tolerance. During the days leading up to the Himalayan 100 endurance race, I was a food vigilante. I axed any opportunity to sample anything that came with the risk of me being sick. No dairy, nothing from the street, and in fact, nothing that was not cooked or peeled ever crossed my lips; and my liquids were limited to beer, cola, or bottled water.  

After the Himalayan 100 race I was in Varanasi with the family of my surgical oncologist, and I had to make up for lost street food time. I ate the most delicious, freshly fried “samosas” near Banaras Hindu University, wrapped in banana leaves. In South-Africa ”samosas” are a familiar snack as well, and the stuffed triangle pockets have always been a big savory favorite with me.           

The next tasty morsel, “Chaat”, came from the corner vendor at the store where I purchased my precious Indian sari from. It was a delicious, tangy concoction of spices and potatoes. The line was long in front of this vendor and a tip from Streetfood101: lengthy lines are always a great sign! My last street bite amidst the crazy traffic on a busy road, from a push cart vendor, was “Golgappa”. Small enough to fit completely in your mouth, “Golgappa” is a delicate hollow pastry bubble, filled as-you-eat with a spicy blend of tamarind water and potatoes. Topped by a choice of sweet or zesty chutney, it delivers a 3 second maximum explosion of taste in your mouth. And like popcorn, you cannot just have one, alternating between sweet and spicy chutney, you finally have to force yourself to stop popping them!        

In New York City the street food is synonymous for me with pretzels, gyros, roasted chestnuts and hot-dogs, particularly after a show on Broadway. Of course, it also comes without many of the risks of a tummy roller coaster ride of some of my more illustrious street fare experiences. But there is something so thrilling for me to share the food of the locals. And I find their tastes, like the ancient knots in carpets that carried messages between weavers, to carry the memory of a special place long after I have left.

Under aTree in the Kalahari Desert

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In my younger days I used to have a rule to only stay in places with working plumbing. Consequently camping was not my forte!  My initial reluctance to embrace al fresco sleeping stemmed from a weekend of complete misery in Cape Hatteras on the Outer Banks of North-Carolina.  Shortly after I arrived in the US, friends talked me into beach camping. The bugs ate us alive, my borrowed sleeping pad deflated during the night and I ended up down the hill with rocks hugging me as if I was a lost daughter. And the fine beach sand . . . how persistently it invades everything!

My dearest mates in South-Africa, Mark and Simone, have always considered my education lacking, especially given that I’m a “regte boere meisie”, and took it upon them to expand my camping skills while I was visiting in 2007. Bundu-bashing is a required activity for any true-blood South-African, and deep in the Kalahari Desert is about as wild as Southern Africa gets. That was where we were heading! And our bush plumbing included a little chair with a hole in the middle and a small shovel to dig and bury.        

It took days to get all the provisions needed and I was dumb struck at the inventory of supplies our two Landies will carry. Khutse Game Reserve in Botswana is one of the most remote wildernesses on earth and only accessible by 4×4’s. Due to its isolation you also have to be fully self-contained and carry enough water and gasoline for days. My friends don’t do anything shabby and a white tablecloth, fine French Champagne and a fiberglass ice chest found spots to ensure that we would camp with flair. Packed to the hilt, my friends, I, their 2 teenagers (Natasha and Kimberley) and their 5-year old, Alex, left Johannesburg for the long drive north.

(Side note: Ok, so I don’t really know how to drive a stick-shift car. And if you ask Simone, she will tell you that I have no clue. So, without any doubt, me driving to, in or from the Kalahari Desert was never on the table! And as a serious type-A, control freak and contingency planner, I rented a satellite phone before we left. Not that it did us any good, as it never found a signal.)          

Many hours later we arrived at the Khutse gate. It was late afternoon and the guard showed us on a map how to reach our designated camping spot with a pit latrine as the only luxury. There were no other living souls in site and without any lodges, chalets, rest camp or supply stores; “isolated wilderness” became very real. Simone had to drive into the setting sun and the rutted, sandy road made me consider converting to all the religions of the world – just in case. It was a nightmare! We were skidding from side to side and soon lost track of Mark’s Landie ahead. As night was falling we arrived at our spot, still having never seen another human. Khutse is famous for its hyena and lion, and without any barriers, we knew that becoming dinner was not far-fetched.

I was introduced to a head lamp and pitched a tent for the first time under close supervision. I learned that in the bush, with wild animals all around, you use your cars and tents, with wind screens, to make a circle. Yeah, I know, I would not have made it on the prairie either! And then we discovered our first major hurdle – we had a flat tire – and a “moerse groot probleem”!  

Having set up camp, we got the fire going and soon the smell of boerewors and lamb chops filled the air. The bush is alive at night and we could hear the roars and laughs of the nearby lion and hyena. Our lux, bush pit latrine was some ways away, and walking over there gave you chills down your spine as you wondered how many pairs of eyes were watching your moves. Botswana did not allow guns upon entry and our only weapons were a long sjambok, an axe and a shovel. My tent buddy was 18-year old Kimberley, a seasoned bush camper, and at 3am when I had to go, the one who stood guard with the sjambok, in case a rogue predator was out on the prowl.

(Side note: Khutse Game Reserve and the Kalahari Desert are located along the Tropic of Capricorn, which marks the most southerly latitude at which the sun can appear directly overhead at noon.)

The next morning we discovered our second major hurdle – some pipe, to cool the engine, of the second 4×4, had broken. And the phone could not connect to any of the dozen satellites circling the earth. Apart from being lousy at driving a stick-shift, I have also never changed a tire. It was my lucky day, because not only did I learn how to change a tire, I also learned how to fix a hole in a heavy-duty tire, under a tree in the middle of the desert! It took most of the day, beneath a blazing hot sun, several ice-cold G&T’s, much sweat and plenty laughter.

We have a saying in Afrikaans – ‘n boer maak a plan – and this “boere meisie” finally earned my way. I suggested to Markie that maybe we should use aluminum foil to build a new pipe because foil could withstand the engine heat. What do you know, it worked, and we drove all the way back to Johannesburg with a homemade foil pipe – maybe I would not have been totally lost on the frontier!

The African sky is flawless and unforgettable. By day it is an endless dome of blue and by night, a canopy of black velvet on which the stars sparkle like scattered diamonds. You can reach out and grasp the Milky Way between your fingers. And the ever-present beacon in the southern sky to guide me back to the African part of my heart, the Southern Cross. During those nights in the Kalahari, the sky was a masterpiece.

We ate like kings, laughed, danced around and begged the storm clouds to reward us with rain, met our neighbors whose roars made us shiver at night and generally had the time of our lives. I learned that you stash your trash inside the car or suspended from a tree, you keep the bonnet of your car up so animals cannot jump on, and that you can squat with a flashlight and a sjambok and still keep your shoes dry.       

Without any blood family, my friends mean the world to me and Simone is the sister I never had. The time together in the African wilderness was another vivid color woven into the fabric of my life. I discovered that bundu-bashing was in my blood, and when we broke up our tent, that we had slept on a cyclone of scorpions.    

These days working plumbing is of no importance, and a tent under a tree in an isolated wilderness, or a hut in the Himalayas; are all places I cherish and seek out. In such settings, stripped from the gloss of our conveniences and close to the essence of nature; I have found that I can hear my thoughts and listen clearly to the voice of God.       

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           (Translations: regte boere meisie - real Afrikaans girl, bundu-bashing – travelling thru remote & rough terrain, Landie – Landrover, moerse groot probleem – big trouble, boerewors – South-African sausage, stick-shift – gears, sjambok – horse or cattle whip made from the hide of a hippo or rhino, ‘n boer maak a plan – a farmer makes a plan, bonnet – hood)

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